Where did all the Vultures go?

I've been informed that there are no more vultures in Ghana. Because of witchcraft - that is, their suitability as vessels for witchcraft - all Ghanaian vultures have migrated out of the country. For if they'd continued to stay ... well, let's just say, they're better of wherever they are.

So, even the vultures are leaving.

When I arrived at Kotoka International Airport on September 9th, the customs officer asked for my "surname." My surname? "My last name?" "Yes, your last name." "Nnuro." "Innuro?" "Yes, Innuro." I had returned home to Ghana on several occassions; never had I felt like a lost boy returning home. This time, maybe because of my mindset - I was home to seek answers to questions that my foreign education had encouraged me to ask - I was a bit more sensitive. According to my short exchange with the customs officer, I had not only lost my Ghanaian grasp of the English language but had forgotten my own last name, excuse me, surname.

My first week and a half were filled with formalities. I made my way to every family member's home-those who are truly family (in the biological sense) and those who are not. The introductions went something like this: "...Papa Nnuro (the name commonly used for me) will be here for about a year...he has come to do some research at the university..." For what? The answer, up till now (and I am in my second month), escapes many. I have heard several variations of what I am in Ghana for, at times, I get confused myself. The answers vary not because I haven't properly explained what I am in Ghana to do - after all, the professors, pastors, reverends, bishops, holy people, etc., get it. I believe it's because beyond the few who make their living in the field of inquisition, nobody ever considers doing something like I'm doing. Not because they can't but because it's not feasible - financially, spiritually, and socially.

It is not financially feasible because Ghana is at a place where educational ambitions beyond the hard sciences and mathematics are considered excess. While a venture like mine may be thought noble, it is viewed as the perfect example of American excess. As one West African novelists aptly put it, and I paraphrase, Africans don't have the luxury to read a novel when there are so many other things to be done. What then could be thought of a research study, financed, in anticipation of a novel? It's excess I tell you, EXCESS!

As far as being spiritually unfeasible is concerned, the comment one of the many subjects I will be interviewing made about this project sums up why the "non-inquisitive" Ghanaians (what seems like 95% of the population) I have come in contact with would refrain from conducting a study like this. He said: Papa, don't get so wrapped up in this project that you get to a point where you end up saying that there is no [Christian] God. Ha! Therein lies the fear of many - that pestering their spiritual stance with possibly challenging thoughts would cause them to deny their Christian God (more on the man who made this comment later).

And finally, socially. Who in their right mind, Ghanaian or non-Ghanaian, wants to talk about reincarnation. Let alone talk about the possibility of betterment through reincarnation.

It's as if I have come to Ghana speaking a new language, a language that I want everyone I meet to be conversant in (because it will help my research). It is a language that most would rather refrain from speaking, especially since there are so many others to be spoken. Why talk about the subconscious conflict between the indigenous Akan religion and colonial Christianity when we could talk about the impending demise of the Ghana Cedi (the currency). I have come to the conclusion that I can't expect everyone to immediately get what I am here to do. I can't expect a proper introduction when I have come to this country speaking this rarely spoken language.

At the University of Ghana, Legon, I have met my language mates. The professors I have come in contact with have been wonderful. On my first day there, Professor A (I haven't received permission to use the names of my professors on this blog so from henceforth I will refer to each one as Professor ___, an alphabet representing the first letter of their last name, surname) of the Sociology Department took charge of me, driving me around the campus in his outdated yet strong BMW. He took me to the offices of a total of four professors. At each professor's office I received the proper introduction and welcome that I had been yearning for. Each fit the cliche: the overbusy college professor. They all made it clear that they were there to help, but that I was more or less on my own. No problem, I thought. Each gave me a list of books; by the end of the day I had amassed a total of fifteen.

I have grown quite fond of these professors and everyone of them deserves to be highlighted on this blog. And I'm sure by the end of my time here Professors Triple A (three have last names beginning with the letter A) and T will receive their due respect. Let me begin with one professor who I think should receive the initial introduction. One of my Professor As, is, in so many ways, the Ghanaian version of Noam Chomsky. This professor is yet to confirm that he subscribes to socialist ideology and he's at most, 55 yrs. But like Chomsky, he's a celebrated linguistics professor. Like Chomsky much of his writings have sought to challenge. Like Chomsky, he's a treat to listen to. And like Chomsky, his expertise are constantly sought during political and other "intellectual" discussions on televion and the radio. Once a week, he can be heard on Ghana's most popular radio station, Peace FM, as part of a political roundtable. I take much delight in telling people that Professor A is one of the professors with whom I'm working. I'm yet to ask him though if he's concerned about the rapid decline of Linguistics Departments on college campuses, an issue that for some unexplained reason I consider an interesting topic of discussion. Maybe when we get to know each other much better I could pose that question to him, until then I'll keep wondering.

On Monday (10/26), I will be sitting down with Bishop Akwasi Sarpong. Bishop Sarpong, now retired, was the Archbishop of Kumasi - the biggest city in the Ashanti Region of Ghana. Bishop Sarpong has written several books on Ghana, specifically, accounts on Akan traditions and religion. Of the fifteen books I have been assigned to read, four are by Mr. Sarpong. This is sure to be a treat. So I will be leaving for Kumasi, where Bishop Sarpong still lives, tomorrow morning. It is a 4 hr bus ride from Accra (the capital city of Ghana). I am very excited about the opportunity to speak with Bishop Sarpong but I am certainly not looking forward to the 4 hr. bus ride. I have to go to bed now but I know there are some topics I have left unaddressed; ie, the vultures and the man who made the comment about my losing my religion. That is the exciting thing about keeping a blog (and finally having reliable internet, oh Africa), you can leave things unaddressed - and hopefully keep the readers wanting more - because there's always a next time.

But a bit about the vultures - as a writer, I am always on the lookout for some intriguing symbolism. I have hypothesized before that my research may lead me to a story about immigration, maybe "the vultures" is where the story begins...